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ET APRÈS L’EXPO ? AFTER THE EXHIBITION? • GÂTEAUX D’ÉMOTIONS Figure majeure de la pâtisserie française, Philippe Conticini livre dans cette pâtisserie-salon de thé ses créations de haut vol. À goûter entre autres : le chou émotion pistache ou la tarte citron-sarrasin. À partir de 6,10  € . Amajor figure in French pastry, Philippe Conticini offers exceptional delights in his bakery and tea room, including a divine pistachio choux pastry and lemon-buckwheat tart. From€6. • MARZO En direction du Bon Marché, une pizzeria bohème chic – comptoir en zelliges, poutres blanchies. On craque pour la Mirko (fond de sauce tomate, saucisson piquant, gorgonzola, champignons crus et basilic, à partir de 14  € ). Near the Bon Marché department store, this bohemian-chic pizzeria with a zellige-tile counter is a hit. We love the Mirko (tomato sauce, hot sausage, gorgonzola, raw mushrooms, and basil, from€14.) où prendre le frais sur les bords de Seine. Le rosé (verres autour de 4 € ) se sirote, en picorant des tapas, sur la barge vitrée ou côté grève, sur la grande terrasse, dans une ambiance animée. Le mercredi, sont organisés bals et concerts. Enjoy the air and atmosphere at this Seine-side tavern, where rosé (€4) and tapas are just the thing on the barge or its outdoor terrace. Dancing and live concerts onWednesdays. 37, rue de Varenne, Paris 7 e (01 43 20 04 99, philippeconticini.fr). 5, rue Paul-Louis-Courier, Paris 7 e (01 43 35 08 05, marzo-paris.com). • ROSA BONHEUR Une guinguette flottante,

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W hy is Berthe Morisot less famous than her close friends Édouard Manet, Edgar Degas, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, and Claude Monet? Maybe because art history has long been written with only men in mind. What’s more, Morisot defied social convention, rebelled against the confines of tradition, and was staunchly independent. She was also considered one of the most innovative impressionist painters during her lifetime, greatly admired by her peers, and hailed by critics. Neglected by posterity, in recent years this Bourges native has attracted renewed interest. The Musée d’Orsay’s exceptional retrospective, assembling nearly 60 paintings from the late 1860s until her premature death in 1895, should secure Morisot’s rightful place in the pantheon of the greats. Rediscovering the painter’s tender and brilliant gaze, which captured ephemeral moments of daily life and intimate scenes caressed in an exquisite light for which she alone had the secret, is a revelation in paintings like Jeune Femme en Gris Étendue , L’Ombrelle Verte and Le Berceau . This uniquely visionary painter is at long last being given her due. u P ascal M ouneyres BERTHE MORISOT,FEMME IMPRESSIONNISTE, jusqu’au 22 septembre/until September 22. Musée d’Orsay, 1, rue de la Légion-d’Honneur, Paris 7 e (01 40 49 48 14, musee-orsay.fr).

Port des Invalides, quai d’Orsay, Paris 7 e (rosabonheur.fr/rosa-seine).

57 - PARIS WORLDWIDE JUILLET  / AOÛT JULY  / AUGUST

2019